The makeup at the Chanel Fall-Winter 2012/13 Ready-to-Wear show was very minimal with all emphasis drawn to the distinguished eyebrows on the models. From far away, the look was a bit curious but close up, the look is nothing short of spectacular. The crystallized eyebrows were made by Maison Lesage, the embroidery house purchased by Chanel as part of PARAFFECTION -a plan to keep the artisanal trades alive. I love that Karl Lagerfeld and Peter Philips decided to play up a feature like eyebrows in a new and unexpected way. I’m just wondering how this look will trickle down to the streets. Until we figure out a way to crystallize our eyebrows we’ll have to be content with Notorious (face) and Frenzy (nails) – two new hit colors for Fall-Winter 2012/13.
Peter Philips, Creative Director of CHANEL Makeup on the look he created for the Chanel Fall-Winter 2012/13 Ready-to-Wear show:
The inspiration for the makeup look came from a few key words and a sketch that Karl Lagerfeld provided: minerals, shading and eyebrows were the key words and the sketch showed a face with stone-lined eyebrows.
So the focus is on the eyebrows, which led me to interpret Karl’s drawing and the “mineral” emphasis by creating straight, graphic eyebrows.
I worked with the Maison Lesage to create sets of embroidered eyebrows. Each eyebrow consists of an anthracite gray sequins and pearl base, embroidered with several sorts and shades of mineral stones and crystals.
For the makeup in general, I wanted a matte finished skin and used CHANEL’s Mat Lumière foundation. The shading and sculpting of the face was achieved with Ombre Contraste a compact specially created for this show. The compact powder is a lavender/taupe coloured shade called Notorious that I applied to the eyelids and then straight down on the side of the face, in a contouring style. The rest of the face I kept nude, so as to keep the focus on the eyebrows.
For the nails I chose the new shade of Le Vernis called Frenzy (Fall 2012 Collection), which is totally colour coordinated with Notorious.
Skin prepared with HYDRA BEAUTY SERUM Hydration Protection Radiance (available April 2012)
POUDRE UNIVERSELLE LIBRE
LE CRAYON KHOL in Clair
RECOURBE CILS DE CHANEL Precision Eyelash Curler
Embroideries made by Maison Lesage specially for the show
The Eyes and the Cheeks OMBRE CONTRASTE “Notorious” – Exclusive Creation available in specific point of sales in September 2012
ROUGE COCO BAUME Hydrating Conditioning Lip Balm
LE VERNIS Nail Colour in Frenzy (available July 2012)
Images: First two images from Chanel photographed by Vincent Lappartient; all other images from Style