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La Chanelphile

January 26, 2011

Chanel Haute Couture Spring Summer 2011 Full Fashion Show

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Filed under: Chanel,Chanel Haute Couture — Tags: , — La Chanelphile @ 7:15 pm

January 25, 2011

Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2011 Review

“Fashion is about two things: the evolution and the opposite.”
-Karl Lagerfeld

Today, Chanel presented the Spring 2011 Haute Couture collection at the Pavillon Cambon Capucines. Inspired by the paintings of Marie Laurencin, notably a portrait of Mlle. Chanel.  The soft pastel colors, especially pinks and greys were brought to life from the paintings on to the runway.  Much of the collection featured day clothes with Karl Lagerfeld noting, “Life is not a cocktail party.”  (WWD, Chanel Spring Couture 2011, 1.25.11).  The collection featured lots of skinny pants and jeans – some worn under tweed suits.  I like the pants on their own but didn’t love them under skirts.  I don’t like that when hippys do it and layering pants under a skirt – even in Chanel Haute Couture – doesn’t make it ok.

The tweed suits, as well as many of the blouses and dresses, featured a strong shoulder albeit a rounded strong shoulder.  The silhouette of the suit was also different from the traditional suit – some jackets were longer when paired with pants.  Other jackets had an array of colors – some with lapels, some shawl collars, some without collars.  The ever present sheer trend made an appearance as well, in the form of sequined sheer pants, sheer dresses and sheer tops.  The softness of the fabric echoed the softness of the pastel palette.  Though the collection included many day looks, Karl did not disappoint when it came to the evening looks.  Mainly gowns, they spanned the spectrum of very full, to flowy to sparkling dress pants.

Usually my favorite aspect of the Chanel collections – the accessories – were kept to a minimum in this presentation.  But the simplicity of the accessories made the ones present that much more powerful.  The ballet flats were pointy and cut straight across the foot which made for a very dainty, yet sexy look.  I love these flats!  I also love the black ribbon chokers, which upon further study revealed that the ribbon was tied into the hair at the bottom of the slightly intentionally messy french twists.  The black ribbons seemed to be inspired by the painting of Mlle. Chanel where against the soft pastels there is a black scarf wrapped loosely around her neck.  Finally, the angled eyeliner, in navy blue and black, played off nicely against the softness and roundness of the collection.  View the entire collection in the gallery below.

First Image: Chanel News
All Other Images: Style

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Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2011 Inspiration: Paintings of Marie Laurencin

WWD reported that Karl Lagerfeld was inspired by the paintings of Marie Laurencin, namely the portrait she did of Mademoiselle Chanel, for the Spring 2011 Haute Couture collection.  The portrait of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel hangs in the Musée de l’Orangerie in Paris and they have an interesting anecdote posted on their site:

In 1923 Laurencin was working on the costumes and sets for Les Biches (The Does) performed by Serge Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes. Coco Chanel, who was creating costumes for the same company’s Le Train Bleu at the time, asked the artist to paint her portrait. Laurencin painted Chanel in a languid pose draped in blue and black with one shoulder bare. The fluid lines, subtly shifting colours and the sitter’s dreamy expression are typical of Laurencin’s work, but Chanel – designer of ‘the little black dress’ and the Chanel suit – turned the painting down, saying it did not look like her.

Marie Laurencin Portrait of Mademoiselle Chanel, 1923 Oil on canvas

Laurencin was part of the Cubist circle and was one of the few women who were part of the movement but also put her own spin on it. Her use of pastel colors and fluid curvey lines differentiated her from other Cubist painters. She painted mostly women and her style suited this subject perfectly. These are some other examples of Marie Laurencin’s work. You can see her use of pastels and how Karl was inspired by her pinks and greys and transformed these hints of color into an airy, light collection perfect for spring. Review of the collection to come shortly!

Marie Laurencin LA VIE AU CHATEAU Oil on Canvas 1925

Marie Laurencin Il Bacio 1927

Marie Laurencin Femme Au Chien

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Baptiste Giabiconi – Showtime

I just read on WWD that Baptiste Giabiconi, Chanel model and Karl Lagerfeld’s muse, is apparently starting a music career. He’s recording his first album called Trilogy and his first single is already out. What do you think? Should he just stick to modeling?

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Filed under: Chanel — Tags: , — La Chanelphile @ 10:48 am

Animating Chanel Video – Here Comes the Beauty Pack

Today, Nowness launched an animated Chanel video featuring the Chanel Beauté products as robots.  Think Transformers – but instead of cars, it’s Chanel cosmetics.  The animation is adorable and entertaining and exclusively on Nowness.

Here’s what they have to say about the film – as soon as I can get an embed link I will post it on the site…

A jet-propelled robot, a beaming sun god and an impish spider are not the likeliest of characters to embody the ultra-luxurious world of Chanel, but Peter Philips, the innovative mind behind them, has made his name pursuing the unexpected. Chanel’s Global Creative Director of Makeup took a break from conceptualizing cosmetic gold to don the animator’s cap for today’s short, a work inspired by a series of headdresses he crafted from beauty product packaging for a Vogue Paris shoot. Built from a trove of compacts, glosses, brushes and more, Philips’s characters embark on a journey that begins with a lipstick-powered automaton blasting through the clouds and ends on more familiar ground, with a model whose chic ensemble channels Mme Chanel herself. Philips came to the task with the requisite technical skills, having studied graphic design before attending Antwerp’s Académie Royale des Beaux-Arts. But he did concede on one creative point—the music. “If it were up to me it would have been disco,” he confesses.

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Chanel Haute Couture Preview


Hilary Alexander of the Telegraph sat down to chat with Karl Lagerfeld in his studio just days before the Haute Couture show (tomorrow!). In the interview, Karl charms us as is his way, and he tells us what he’s into: books on the origin of language, pretentious intellectual pursuits and Anna Calvi. Even better than hearing Uncle Karl wax poetic on luxury, is getting glimpses of the collection itself. I love the black chokers – so simple and chic! And those very simple, very flat, very pointy ballet flats need to be on my feet this spring!

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Filed under: Chanel,Chanel Haute Couture — Tags: , , , , — La Chanelphile @ 12:07 am

January 24, 2011

Beautiful Dreamer: Peter Philips Interview on Nowness

As Chanel’s Global Creative Director of Makeup, Peter Philips’s instinct for trend forecasting is unmatched. Since his appointment in 2008, the Belgian beauty guru has rolled out one hit after another—from his limited-edition nail varnish Jade, which sold for a breathless $100 a bottle on eBay at its peak, to his “temporary tattoos,” a project with Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel’s spring 2010 show, which had a waiting list of 3,589 names before the designs went on sale. For today’s film, directors Jauretsi and Crystal Moselle visited the onetime makeup artist at his Manhattan home to discuss his early memories of his mother, Irving Penn’s light-sculpting ability, and the inspiration behind Philips’s robot-themed animation for Chanel, which has its world premiere on NOWNESS tomorrow.

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Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011

The Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011 show is on Tuesday and it will be shown at the Pavillon Cambon Capucines.  Chanel posted a preview of the invite on Chanel News and it’s posted below.  It’s difficult to get a read on what the inspiration may be old feeling to it.  The tiled double-C’s remind me of the Paris-Byzance collection but they look more like cobblestones to me – like streets in the 1800s rather than mosaic tiles.  There’s something about the image that makes me think of horse drawn carriages.  I guess I’ll know for sure tomorrow…

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Filed under: Chanel,Chanel Haute Couture — Tags: , — La Chanelphile @ 11:40 am

January 23, 2011

Window World: Chanel Spring/Summer 2011 Pre Collection

Two weeks ago we posted about Karl Lagerfeld’s newest Chanel short film, Window World.  Now, Chanel has launched a Window World site devoted to the Spring/Summer 2011 Pre Collection looks featured in the short.  The site is a virtual rendition of the film – it shows images of Magdalena Frackowiak, Barbara Dvorakova and Baptiste Giabiconi as mannequins without the eerie music from the film.  Check out screenshots from the site below, as well as lookbook shots of the Spring/Summer 2011 Pre Collection.  If you haven’t seen Window World yet, you can also see it below.

My favorite thing about the collection has to be the red accents – the red shoes with black toe cap, the red quilted bags, and the red wigs.  I also am loving the black cuffs with chains and the t-strap top cap heels. The website is also cool and I love how the images move – it makes up for the less than stellar short film.

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January 19, 2011

Culture Chanel Exhibit at Shanghai’s MOCA

“The story of Chanel is really a story of emotions, of images and words. It is not just a history of fashion. It is more a history of feminine behavior. It is a social history by itself.”

-Jean-Louis Froment, Curator Culture Chanel

Back in October we learned that the Shanghai Museum of Contemporary Art was hosting Culture Chanel an exhibit featuring items from the life of Chanel and that illustrate her relationship with the arts.  With over 400 items, curator Jean-Louis Froment brings us into Chanel’s world as she saw it and places her designs in the larger context of other artistic movements such as painting, music, dance and writing.  The exhibit also shows some of the seeds of Mlle. Chanel’s inspiration and shows how mere thoughts and experiences shaped her designs.

Wallpaper* Magazine and WWD had coverage of the event and the images that follow are republished from those sites. This exhibit is a once in a lifetime event: It’s a chronology – culturally and socially – of the influences and designs of Coco Chanel. The exhibit runs through March 14, and I truly hope that it comes to the U.S. I NEED to see this exhibit first hand! Until then, the images below will have to suffice…

**UPDATE 1.23.11 – Culture Chanel has its own site you can visit it here.

Sources:  WWD & Wallpaper*

Curator Jean-Louis Froment; Chanel No.5

French actress and Chanel brand ambassador Anna Mouglalis. She also played Coco Chanel in "Coco Chanel and Igor Stravinsky"

Pablo Picasso display and ink drawing

A photo of Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in front of one of her many coromandel screens in 1959. Chanel collected coromandel screens but never went to China.

Origin Section of the Exhibit: This part of the exhibit focuses on Chanel's childhood where she spent some time in an orphanage run by nuns in Aubazine.

From left: Original 'Cométe' brooch, created by Gabrielle Chanel for her exhibition 'Bijoux de Diamants', 1932, © Photo Didier Roy Pen and ink image taken from pavement of the abbey of Aubazine, the orphanage where Gabrielle Chanel lived, 1996, © Alexandre Céalac 1965 - 1980 Haute Couture collection, © Photo Olivier Saillant

From left: Half-Length portrait of Catherine de' Medici, by Francois Clouet, 16th century, © RMN (Domaine de Chantilly) / René-Gabriel Ojéda Gabrielle Chanel with a white collaret by George Hoyningen-Huene, 1939, © Horst Carmen Kass wearing an outfit from Chanel's 2009 Autumn/Winter ready-to-Wear collection, by Dusan Reljin, © Dusan Reljin

From Left: Costume design for Potiphar's wife in 'Joseph's Legend' by Léon Bakst, 1914, © Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, Theater and Dance Collection, don de Madame Adolph B. Spreckels Gabrielle Chanel in front of the Coromandel screens of her apartment at 31 rue Cambon, Paris by Boris Lipnitzki, 1937, © Lipnitzki/Roger-Viollet The ‘Coromandel’ coat by Karl Lagerfeld for the 1996 Autumn/Winter Chanel Haute Couture collection, © Photo Karl Lagerfeld

From Left: Portrait of Gabrielle Chanel with her dog, Gigot, at her villa ‘La Pausa’, in Roquebrune, France, circa 1930, from Collection Chanel, Paris, © D.R 'Acrobats' by Pablo Picasso, 1905, © Collection Marina Picasso/Courtesy Galerie Jan Krugier & Cie, Genève (Suisse)/Succession, Picasso 2010 Barbara Palvin wearing an outfit from CHANEL’s 2010 Spring/Summer Ready-to-Wear collection by Martin Lidell, © D.R

Chanel Iconography - The Camelia: From Left: Marcel Proust in the garden of Reynaldo Hahn, Photographe Inconnu, 1905, © Snark/Art Resource, NY ‘The Lady of the Camellias’ printed book, Alexandre Dumas Fils, 1858, © Musée de la Dame aux Camélias Amber Valletta wearing an outfit from Chanel’s 1995 Autumn/Winter Ready-to-Wear collection, © Photo Peter Lindbergh

Chanel Iconography - The Wheat Shaft: From Left: Gabrielle Chanel leaning against a fireplace in her apartment, photo by Cecil Beaton, 1965, © Beaton/Vogue/Condé Nast Archive Ear of Wheat by Salvador Dali, 1947, © Salvador Dali, Fondation Gala-Salvador Dali, ADAGP, Paris 2010 Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel’s 2010 Spring/Summer Ready-to-Wear collection, © Photo Karl Lagerfeld/Chanel

Chanel Iconography - The Number 5: From Left: Cover project for the exhibition catalogue of 1921 by Alexander Rodchenko, © A. Rodchenko & V. Stepanova archive/ADAGP Paris 2010 Bottle of Chanel N°5 perfume, from Collection Chanel, Paris, © Photo Didier Roy ‘The Five Fingers’ musical score by Igor Stravinsky, 1921, from Collection Chanel, Paris, © Copyright 1922 Chester Music Ltd worldwide

From Left: Vogue Paris, 1 November 1926, © Courtesy Vogue Paris 'Figure' by Pablo Picasso, Avignon, © Marina Picasso Collection, courtesy Galerie Jan Krugier & Cie, Geneva / Succession Picasso 2010 Honor Fraser wearing a dress from Chanel’s 1996 Autumn/Winter Ready-to-Wear collection, © photo by Gilles Bensimon

The influcence of the nuns of Aubazine. From Left: Head of ‘La Bernardine’, 15th/16th century sculpture, © Région Limousin. Service de l’Inventaire et du Patrimoine Culturel/Philippe Rivière. Ville de Brive-la-Gaillarde – Musée Labenche d’art et d’histoire Bianca Balti wearing an outfit from Chanel’s 2010 Spring/Summer Ready-to-Wear collection, © Photo Camilla Åkrans Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, 1990 Autumn/Winter Haute Couture collection, © Photo Olivier Saillant

Haute Couture Chanel dress designed by Karl Lagerfeld for the 1990 Fall/Winter Collection. This dress appears to have been inspired by Chanel's love of coromandel screens.

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Filed under: Chanel — Tags: , , , , — La Chanelphile @ 10:54 pm
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