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La Chanelphile

January 31, 2011

Chanel Spring 2011 Haute Couture Beauté

Last week Chanel presented its Spring 2011 Haute Couture collection. The beauty stand out was the angled eyeliner that not only was a nice contrast to the softness of the collection, but was also inspired by the black scarf in the painting of Chanel by Marie Laurencin that was interpreted by Karl Lagerfeld into a black ribbon choker.  The beauty was simple and pretty and was a nice complement to the collection.

Peter Philips, Creative Director of CHANEL Make Up used the following CHANEL products to create the runway beauty looks:
Skin prepared with HYDRAMAX + ACTIVE Nourishing Cream for Dry Skin

The Complexion

VITALUMIERE AQUA Ultra-Light Skin Perfecting Makeup SPF 15
POUDRE UNIVERSELLE LIBRE  Natural Finish Loose Powder
ECLAT LUMIERE Highlighting Face Pen
CORRECTEUR PERFECTION Long Lasting Concealer

The Eyes

EXCLUSIVE CREATION OMBRE ESSENTIELLE in Gris Exquis (available July 2011)
EXCLUSIVE CREATION OMBRES TISSÉES in Beiges (available July 2011)
STYLO YEUX WATERPROOF Long Lasting Eyeliner in Ebène
CRAYON SOURCILS (available July 2011)
MASCARA INIMITABLE in Noir

The Cheeks

EXCLUSIVE CREATION OMBRES TISSÉES in Beiges (available in July 2011)
JOUES CONTRASTE Powder Blush in Rose Pétale

The Lips

SOIN TENDRE LÈVRES Hydrating Lip Treatment
EXCLUSIVE CREATION ROUGE COCO SHINE in Royallieu (available in July 2011)

The Nails

LE VERNIS Nail Colour in Tendresse

Photo Credit: Vincent Lappartient for Chanel

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January 25, 2011

Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2011 Review

“Fashion is about two things: the evolution and the opposite.”
-Karl Lagerfeld

Today, Chanel presented the Spring 2011 Haute Couture collection at the Pavillon Cambon Capucines. Inspired by the paintings of Marie Laurencin, notably a portrait of Mlle. Chanel.  The soft pastel colors, especially pinks and greys were brought to life from the paintings on to the runway.  Much of the collection featured day clothes with Karl Lagerfeld noting, “Life is not a cocktail party.”  (WWD, Chanel Spring Couture 2011, 1.25.11).  The collection featured lots of skinny pants and jeans – some worn under tweed suits.  I like the pants on their own but didn’t love them under skirts.  I don’t like that when hippys do it and layering pants under a skirt – even in Chanel Haute Couture – doesn’t make it ok.

The tweed suits, as well as many of the blouses and dresses, featured a strong shoulder albeit a rounded strong shoulder.  The silhouette of the suit was also different from the traditional suit – some jackets were longer when paired with pants.  Other jackets had an array of colors – some with lapels, some shawl collars, some without collars.  The ever present sheer trend made an appearance as well, in the form of sequined sheer pants, sheer dresses and sheer tops.  The softness of the fabric echoed the softness of the pastel palette.  Though the collection included many day looks, Karl did not disappoint when it came to the evening looks.  Mainly gowns, they spanned the spectrum of very full, to flowy to sparkling dress pants.

Usually my favorite aspect of the Chanel collections – the accessories – were kept to a minimum in this presentation.  But the simplicity of the accessories made the ones present that much more powerful.  The ballet flats were pointy and cut straight across the foot which made for a very dainty, yet sexy look.  I love these flats!  I also love the black ribbon chokers, which upon further study revealed that the ribbon was tied into the hair at the bottom of the slightly intentionally messy french twists.  The black ribbons seemed to be inspired by the painting of Mlle. Chanel where against the soft pastels there is a black scarf wrapped loosely around her neck.  Finally, the angled eyeliner, in navy blue and black, played off nicely against the softness and roundness of the collection.  View the entire collection in the gallery below.

First Image: Chanel News
All Other Images: Style

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Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2011 Inspiration: Paintings of Marie Laurencin

WWD reported that Karl Lagerfeld was inspired by the paintings of Marie Laurencin, namely the portrait she did of Mademoiselle Chanel, for the Spring 2011 Haute Couture collection.  The portrait of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel hangs in the Musée de l’Orangerie in Paris and they have an interesting anecdote posted on their site:

In 1923 Laurencin was working on the costumes and sets for Les Biches (The Does) performed by Serge Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes. Coco Chanel, who was creating costumes for the same company’s Le Train Bleu at the time, asked the artist to paint her portrait. Laurencin painted Chanel in a languid pose draped in blue and black with one shoulder bare. The fluid lines, subtly shifting colours and the sitter’s dreamy expression are typical of Laurencin’s work, but Chanel – designer of ‘the little black dress’ and the Chanel suit – turned the painting down, saying it did not look like her.

Marie Laurencin Portrait of Mademoiselle Chanel, 1923 Oil on canvas

Laurencin was part of the Cubist circle and was one of the few women who were part of the movement but also put her own spin on it. Her use of pastel colors and fluid curvey lines differentiated her from other Cubist painters. She painted mostly women and her style suited this subject perfectly. These are some other examples of Marie Laurencin’s work. You can see her use of pastels and how Karl was inspired by her pinks and greys and transformed these hints of color into an airy, light collection perfect for spring. Review of the collection to come shortly!

Marie Laurencin LA VIE AU CHATEAU Oil on Canvas 1925

Marie Laurencin Il Bacio 1927

Marie Laurencin Femme Au Chien

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