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La Chanelphile

January 4, 2011

Chanel Spring/Summer 2011 Ad Campaign

Images of Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2011 ad campaign (as printed in the Elle UK Feb 2011 issue) have surfaced online and for the first two shots, Karl has gone with his favorite models of the moment – Baptiste Giabiconi and Freja Beha.  You may remember, the Spring/Summer 2011 collection was inspired by Last Year at Marienbad and the Grand Palais was transformed into a garden setting from the movie.  The ad campaign seems to be following a similar vein as they are photographed in a serene garden with lush foliage.

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October 11, 2010

Chanel Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear Inspiration: Last Year at Marienbad

As is usually the case, the set for the Chanel Spring-Summer 2011 Ready-to-Wear show was awe inspiring. I thought it might be tough to outdo a glacier, but Uncle Karl managed to create an atmosphere that brought his creations to life. Inspired by the 1961 French film, Last Year at Marienbad (L’Année dernière à Marienbad), everything from the set design to the clothing was infused by surreal haze of the black and white film.

One of the most dramatic scenes of Last Year at Marienbad takes place in a garden. I’m not sure if it’s the use of Chanel‘s traditional black and white, or trying to replicate the garden in gray-scale from the black and white film (or perhaps a bit of both), but the Chanel set at the Grand Palais was a replica of this garden, complete with fountain.

What makes this film even more sentimental is that Coco Chanel designed the costumes for leading lady, Delphine Seyrig. Dramatic and chic black looks featuring feathers and lace adorned Seyrig in the film and you could see the influence on Karl’s collection. The Spring-Summer 2011 collection featured lots of feathers (in many varieties), as well as black lace. One cloak in particular looks like it came straight out of the film with its epic feather collar.

The trailer for Last Year at Marienbad is below. From what I’ve read, people either love it or hate it, as it’s a “high art” film and is easily misunderstood. Either way, I now have a new movie to add to my Netflix que…

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October 8, 2010

Chanel 2011 Spring/Summer Ready to Wear Beauty

Karl Lagerfeld showed me a sketch he had drawn of a girl with smoky eyes, so it was clear that we would put the focus on the eyes for this show. The inspiration for the color came from the black-white-green French garden that was recreated in the Grand Palais, from the glow that we can find in black, grey and white pearls, and the enamel that Karl integrated into the costume jewelry. I created deep, dark smoky eyes on a luminous fresh face with tinted, dewy lips. Nails were graphic and strong, and a thin black line was drawn in the hair.


- Peter Philips, Global Creative Director of CHANEL Makeup

The beauty as the Chanel Spring-Summer 2011 Ready-to-Wear show will no doubt be oft-imitated as it was lovely.  Dark charcoal smokey eyes was the highlight of a seductive look that featured an otherwise natural face.  Lips had a hint of blush that was just a few shades deeper than natural lip color.  Hair was straight and pulled back tight with center and side parts accentuated with a thin straight black line drawn with eyeliner.  The nails always steal the show and Black Pearl looks like it will be a color that will surely be duplicated by mass market nail polish companies.  I love the black gunmetal look of it and it really does look like the beautiful iridescent grey of Tahitian black pearls.  On their toes, models wore Pearl Drop, a white pearly color.  Though Pearl Drop is nice, Black Pearl is definitely on my wish list for spring.

Peter used the following CHANEL products to create the runway beauty looks:

Skin prepared with HYDRAMAX + ACTIVE Nourishing Cream for Dry Skin

The Complexion: PRO LUMIÈRE Professional Finish Makeup SPF 15
POUDRE UNIVERSELLE LIBRE Natural Finish Loose Powder
ÉCLAT LUMIÈRE Highlighter Face Pen
CORRECTEUR PERFECTION Long Lasting Concealer

The Eyes: LES 4 OMBRES Quadra Eye Shadow in Regard Perlé (Spring 2011 Makeup Collection, available January 2011)
LE CRAYON KHÔL Intense Eye Pencil in Noir
LE CRAYON YEUX Precision Eye Definer in Noir
LE CRAYON SOURCILS (available August 2011)
LE SOURCIL DE CHANEL Perfect Brows
MASCARA INIMITABLE WATERPROOF in Noir

The Cheeks: JOUES CONTRASTE Powder Blush in Espiègle (Spring 2011 Makeup Collection, available January 2011)

The Lips: ROUGE COCO SHINE in Boy (available April 2011)

The Nails: LE VERNIS Nail Colour in Black Pearl on the hands (Spring 2011 Makeup Collection, available January 2011)
LE VERNIS Nail Colour in Pearl Drop on the feet (Spring 2011 Makeup Collection, available January 2011)

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Chanel Spring-Summer 2011 Ready-to-Wear

Feminine. Gorgeous. Frayed. The Chanel Spring-Summer 2011 Ready-to-Wear collection is an exercise of beautiful decay. Fabrics were frayed and had a look of wear and tear that added an edge to the otherwise frilly pieces. A color palette of the iconic Chanel black and white with splashes of pastels adorned an otherwise black-scale French garden set at the Grand Palais in Paris.  An eighty-piece orchestra accompanied the models as they sashayed to the music of Björk, the Verve, and John “007″ Barry.

Apparel
The traditional Chanel suit was updated with a few twists: 3/4 sleeve and short sleeve swing coats, large lapels and short shorts instead of skirts. The shorts were very tiny and I wonder if real women can pull them off. To me, they seem like they would only look good on supermodels who are super skinny and have legs that go on for days. Many of the looks were embellished with flowers, feathers and/or lace making the looks ultra-feminine and etheral. One of the most exciting parts of the apparel collection was Chanel for bébé – a little boy walking hand-in-hand with a male model donning a Chanel jacket. No official word, but maybe this is a hint at a children’s collection to come.

Accessories
As is always the case for me, the accessories stole the show. My mouth literally watered as I went through the detail shots of the shoe. Uncle Karl never forgets about the dainty digits and his gloves for this collection were awesome. From zippered to cut out, from floral to metal mesh – the gloves in this collection were stunning. The costume jewelry included usual suspects like pearl strands and cuffs but also included a lot of metal chain work with multiple strands. Clear chunky bangle bracelets with pastel colored stripes were fun way to add color to monochrome outfits.

The quilted bags were gorgeous and one of my absolute favorites was the oversize clutch with oversize quilting. Available in several colors, my desire for this bag is only second to my desire for a classic 2.55. The very best accessory totally stole the show – and it was the most unique one of its kind that I have ever seen. A model walked the runway with an oversize umbrella that was shaped like a hat – so simple, yet so GENIUS! This umbrella is easily the best umbrella ever created.  I don’t have much to say about the shoes (gasp!) because I didn’t like them :(

Beauty
Peter Philips always does a wonderful job of translating Karl Lagerfeld’s sketches into actual looks. A neutral face was highlighted by a very dark smokey eye, the color echoing the black-scale garden set. Hair was straight and pulled back with side or center parts with all parts having a black line drawn in giving us a new use for black pencil eyeliner. Nails were painted in what looked like a dark grey gunmetal color called Black Pearl. More details to come on the Beauté collection.

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Keira Knightley in Chanel Beauté

Keira Knightley, star of the upcoming COCO MADEMOISELLE advertising campaign sequel directed by Joe Wright, wore CHANEL makeup at the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2011 Ready-to-Wear Show in Paris on Tuesday, October 5th, 2010.

Keira looked gorgeous and I love her new bob. I wonder if it was inspired by Coco? Keira’s look was created using the following products – it won’t make us look like her but it will get us as close as we can:

Face: VITALUMIÈRE AQUA Ultra-Light Skin Perfecting Makeup SPF 15 in Beige Rosé – Tendre (available March 2011)
JOUES CONTRASTE Powder Blush in Pink Explosion

Eyes: LES 4 OMBRES Quadra Eye Shadow in Tentation Cuivré
MASCARA INIMITABLE WATERPROOF in Noir

Lips: ROUGE COCO Hydrating Crème Lip Colour in Chintz

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