La Chanelphile

January 24, 2013

Chanel Savoir Faire: Making of the SS 2013 Haute Couture Collection

Here Chanel shows us the amount of detail and work that goes into one dress – imagine how much work goes into creating the entire collection! Watch the masters of their craft at work…


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Filed under: Chanel Haute Couture — Tags: , , — La Chanelphile @ 1:37 pm

October 22, 2012

Chanel Adds Barrie Knitwear to Its Portfolio

chanel barrie knitwear Jim Carrie and Bruno Pavlosky

Barrie Knitwear managing director Jim Carrie, left, and Chanel president Bruno Pavlosky

Scottish cashmere mill Barrie Knitwear was acquired by Chanel after Barrie’s parent company Dawson International collapsed. In a long tradition of rescuing ateliers through its Paraffection program, Chanel is a protector of fashion craftsmanship and traditions.

CHANEL’s acquisition of Barrie Knitwear in Hawick secures the jobs of all 176 employees and safeguards a historic brand known for the manufacture of high quality cashmere for some of the world’s most prestigious couture houses, department stores and private label outlets.

Bruno Pavlovsky, CHANEL’s Fashion President, said:

The acquisition of Barrie business by CHANEL is all the more natural as the factory has worked with us for more than 25 years, producing cashmere knitwear including CHANEL’s iconic two-tone cashmere cardigans. Through this acquisition, we reaffirm our commitment to traditional expertise and craftsmanship, and our wish to safeguard their future and support their development.

Blair Nimmo, head of restructuring at KPMG in Scotland and joint administrator of Dawson International Trading Ltd, said:

With the sale to CHANEL, we believe we have secured a sustainable future for a business which is of both historical significance to the textile industry and of local importance as a major employer in the Scottish Borders. We would like to thank the staff, customers and suppliers for their patience, loyalty and understanding as we worked towards achieving this sale.

The current management will continue to manage the company, with Jim Carrie as Managing Director and Clive Brown as Sales Director. Barrie will pursue its partnerships with all major luxury brands, with no exclusivity, and grow the presence of its own brands throughout the world.

Image Source: Hawick News

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Filed under: Chanel — Tags: , — La Chanelphile @ 1:45 pm

September 28, 2012

Chanel Acquires Causse Gantier

causse gantier

Causse Gantier gloves

Chanel is preserving the skills and craftsmanship of artisans – “ateliers d’art” – through Paraffection. Launched in 1997, Paraffection is a Chanel subsidiary created to preserve artisanal manufacturing and includes in its portfolio Desrues (costume jewellery), Lemarié (feather-maker), Maison Michel (hat-maker), Maison Lesage (embroidery), Massaro (boot-maker), Goossens (goldsmith), Guillet (fabric flowers-maker) and Atelier Montex (embroidery). The neweset addition to Paraffection is Causse Gantier – a Parisian glove-making company.

causse gantier

Maison Causse was founded in the town of Millau by Paul Causse in 1892. For more than a century, four generations of this family successively led the company until 2003. In a few years, Causse became a supplier to leading names in the French and international luxury sectors. Today, as the last active glove-maker in Millau, the “historic capital of luxury gloves in France”, the company’s 40 employees produce close to 25,000 pairs of gloves per year.

The partnership between Causse and CHANEL is all the more natural as the atelier has worked with Karl Lagerfeld and CHANEL’s design studio for many years on the Haute Couture and Ready-to-Wear collections. Bruno Pavlovsky, President of CHANEL Fashion as well as of Causse, stated, “Maison Causse has rare traditional expertise that we wanted to preserve. Through this acquisition, we are sustaining excellence in glove-making in France.”

causse gantier

Causse will pursue its partnerships with all major luxury brands, with no exclusivity, and grow the presence of the Causse brand in France and throughout the world.

In welcoming Causse in Paraffection, CHANEL reaffirms its attachment to “Métiers d’art” and creation’s fundamental role, as well as the House’s wish to help expand and accompany their development.

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Filed under: Chanel,Metiers d'Art — Tags: — La Chanelphile @ 9:47 am

March 9, 2012

Chanel Fall-Winter 2012/13 Ready-to-Wear Beauty

Chanel Fall Winter 2012 2013 Ready to Wear Beauty

The makeup at the Chanel Fall-Winter 2012/13 Ready-to-Wear show was very minimal with all emphasis drawn to the distinguished eyebrows on the models. From far away, the look was a bit curious but close up, the look is nothing short of spectacular. The crystallized eyebrows were made by Maison Lesage, the embroidery house purchased by Chanel as part of PARAFFECTION -a plan to keep the artisanal trades alive. I love that Karl Lagerfeld and Peter Philips decided to play up a feature like eyebrows in a new and unexpected way. I’m just wondering how this look will trickle down to the streets. Until we figure out a way to crystallize our eyebrows we’ll have to be content with Notorious (face) and Frenzy (nails) – two new hit colors for Fall-Winter 2012/13.

Peter Philips, Creative Director of CHANEL Makeup on the look he created for the Chanel Fall-Winter 2012/13 Ready-to-Wear show:

The inspiration for the makeup look came from a few key words and a sketch that Karl Lagerfeld provided: minerals, shading and eyebrows were the key words and the sketch showed a face with stone-lined eyebrows.

So the focus is on the eyebrows, which led me to interpret Karl’s drawing and the “mineral” emphasis by creating straight, graphic eyebrows.

I worked with the Maison Lesage to create sets of embroidered eyebrows. Each eyebrow consists of an anthracite gray sequins and pearl base, embroidered with several sorts and shades of mineral stones and crystals.

For the makeup in general, I wanted a matte finished skin and used CHANEL’s Mat Lumière foundation. The shading and sculpting of the face was achieved with Ombre Contraste a compact specially created for this show. The compact powder is a lavender/taupe coloured shade called Notorious that I applied to the eyelids and then straight down on the side of the face, in a contouring style. The rest of the face I kept nude, so as to keep the focus on the eyebrows.

For the nails I chose the new shade of Le Vernis called Frenzy (Fall 2012 Collection), which is totally colour coordinated with Notorious.

Skin prepared with HYDRA BEAUTY SERUM Hydration Protection Radiance (available April 2012)

The Complexion

The Eyes
RECOURBE CILS DE CHANEL Precision Eyelash Curler
Embroideries made by Maison Lesage specially for the show

The Eyes and the Cheeks OMBRE CONTRASTE “Notorious” – Exclusive Creation available in specific point of sales in September 2012

The Lips
ROUGE COCO BAUME Hydrating Conditioning Lip Balm

The Nails
LE VERNIS Nail Colour in Frenzy (available July 2012)

Chanel Fall Winter 2012 2013 Ready to Wear Beauty

Images: First two images from Chanel photographed by Vincent Lappartient; all other images from Style

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Filed under: Chanel,Chanel Cosmetics,Chanel Ready To Wear — Tags: , , — La Chanelphile @ 10:42 pm

December 4, 2011

Rest In Peace François Lesage

francois lesage

François Lesage, the heir to the Maison Lesage embroidery studio, passed away last week at the age of 82 after losing his battle to his illness.  Maison Lesage was created by François’ father and he took the helm when his father passed away in 1949.  Though Maison Lesage was the embroidery studio for all of Paris’ best designers, this is particularly sad for Chanel because Chanel bought Maison Lesage in 2002 as part of Paraffection in a plan to preserve “petite mains” – the heritage of artisans, their age-old crafts and their couture ateliers.  Looking ahead and knowing the delicacy of the situation, François Lesage started an embroidery school in the atelier.  Maison Lesage will continue embroidering.  I send my deepest condolences to the Lesage family.

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Filed under: Chanel — Tags: , , , — La Chanelphile @ 6:54 pm

August 4, 2011

Maison Michel Fall 2011 Lookbook

Maison Michel Fall 2011 Ready-to-WearMaison Michel is a millinery atelier that was purchased by Chanel in 2002 as a part of PARAFFECTION, a solution to keep haute couture ateliers alive.  In doing so, Chanel is keeping a rich legacy of knowledge and tradition intact and preventing fashion techniques from becoming lost arts, as well as ensuring that haute couture remains robust.

Maison Michel makes all of the hats for Chanel but also releases its own ready-to-wear collection.  The Fall 2011 collection just released and the look book images are beautiful.  Shot by Karl Lagerfeld and featuring Clemence Poesy, Sasha Pivovarova and Anna Calvi, the simplicity of the black and white images is juxtapozed against the intricate details of the head pieces. I love the lace headbands, the spiked headbands – really I love every piece.  There’s something for different looks and occasions.   I also love that Maison Michel specializes in millinery and that is how Coco Chanel herself got her start.  Check out the look book…

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Filed under: Chanel,Chanel Haute Couture,Karl Lagerfeld — Tags: , , , — La Chanelphile @ 5:19 am